Bonjour!
Its 28th May, ive been here a month already, and what a month its been!
Looking back i arrived a little weary and wide-eyed and more than a little wary (so many friends warned me about staying after dark and not wearing jewelry in public)
Ive been shocked by the divides here, ive been delighted by the warm welcome and all the wonderful people from far-flung places ive met whilst working here, from the inspiring world travellers to the workers in transit passing through while on a job. Working in a backpackers has been a perfect start as it meant I got a good feel for hostel life (although I've been spoilt in this one)
Inside a month I've sea kayaked, township toured, been to Cape Town twice, experienced numerous wine tastings, boat tripped to see southern right whales, rode a horse through wine valleys, played drinking games till the early hours, walked Jock for miles along the coastal path, taught American Kevin how to drive with gears, learnt new cooking skills from Austrian Mel, hiked many times in the local Fernkloof Nature Reserve, seen animals and plants i never knew existed, climbed in caves on the seashore, and walked miles of white sands, ive visited the most southern tip of Africa and also the most South Westerly and ive watched in awe at big cats enjoying comfortable free lives in a sanctuary.
It's fair to say ive done lots but really its only a speck of whats to see and do here i this beautiful country.
Its time to move on and ive a couple of weeks in Capetown planned as ive kindly been offered a free bed there, so here's to city life for a little while.
Current daily spend for May was about £20 a day but i think i may struggle in town!
Im not feeling too home sock as i have everyone at my fingertips most of the mornings and evenings with good wifi but am aware it won't always be this way.
So, June im coming atcha, what have you got for me?
S
Monday, 27 May 2019
Friday, 10 May 2019
Kayak supreme
Today i went on one of the local excursions, sea kayaking. Ive kayaked many times on river and once or twic on the sea so i wasnt scared or super excited but fancied seeing a seal or two.
Met the lovely guys down in Hermanus Old Harbour who run Walker Bay Adventures and got my lifejacket, we discussed taking phones etc and i stood my ground as im a dangerous risk taker etc etc. I shared a kayak with a guy called Michael from Berlin who hadnt been kayaking before, and we were off. It was a beautiful morning, mist still on the bay as we paddled hugging the coastline. We saw seals playing on the rocks and they saw us and dived into the water to show off a bit. Out into open sea we got some great info about marine life and even tried some seaweed called 'sea olives' and it was actually quite nice.
Suddenyl the mood changed and our guide told us to look up 'dolphins!' he said, i squinted into the distance and could only see a minor disturbance in the water. We all stopped paddling and waited, i grabbed my phone in readiness. Soon we were aware of a huge pod of dolphins heading straight towards us, you could hear the sound of the waves they made as they leapt into the air steadily making progress. I felt my heart soar - they didnt even seem to be bothered by our prescence. We sat still as they approached , no-one could speak, its was the most incredible moment as they passed through the very water we were sitting in and onwards into the distance, we were literally in amongst them. Im so glad i took my phone!
We watched them fade into the distance and stayed a while in the hope they might return, but i think id used up all my luck points for the day, week or even year!
On the way back to shore we watched a sea lion who had got himself an octopus for breakfast, he was flinging it in the air and i think showing off a little too.
Back on dry land with a soggy bum and a big smile i was in seventh heaven.
Hermanus and indeed South Africa just keeps on giving, what a wonderful country.
Wonder what ill try next!
Met the lovely guys down in Hermanus Old Harbour who run Walker Bay Adventures and got my lifejacket, we discussed taking phones etc and i stood my ground as im a dangerous risk taker etc etc. I shared a kayak with a guy called Michael from Berlin who hadnt been kayaking before, and we were off. It was a beautiful morning, mist still on the bay as we paddled hugging the coastline. We saw seals playing on the rocks and they saw us and dived into the water to show off a bit. Out into open sea we got some great info about marine life and even tried some seaweed called 'sea olives' and it was actually quite nice.
Suddenyl the mood changed and our guide told us to look up 'dolphins!' he said, i squinted into the distance and could only see a minor disturbance in the water. We all stopped paddling and waited, i grabbed my phone in readiness. Soon we were aware of a huge pod of dolphins heading straight towards us, you could hear the sound of the waves they made as they leapt into the air steadily making progress. I felt my heart soar - they didnt even seem to be bothered by our prescence. We sat still as they approached , no-one could speak, its was the most incredible moment as they passed through the very water we were sitting in and onwards into the distance, we were literally in amongst them. Im so glad i took my phone!
We watched them fade into the distance and stayed a while in the hope they might return, but i think id used up all my luck points for the day, week or even year!
On the way back to shore we watched a sea lion who had got himself an octopus for breakfast, he was flinging it in the air and i think showing off a little too.
Back on dry land with a soggy bum and a big smile i was in seventh heaven.
Hermanus and indeed South Africa just keeps on giving, what a wonderful country.
Wonder what ill try next!
Saturday, 4 May 2019
The coastal path
Today our bosses went off on holiday for the month leaving us here to manage things. Strangely I dont feel nervous really, but i do want to do a good job.
I work five hours a day, five days a week and the work is pretty simple once youve been shown the ropes, check people in and out, meet and greet and make sure you are always available.
Today im working 5-10 so this morning i took myself off on the coastal path to explore.
Hermanus has a path about 11km long, starting at the New Harbour and finishing in the East on the stunning Grotto Beach, handily theres also a really cool bar/restaurant called Dutchies at the end too.
The pathway meanders through thick hedgrows and there are many many benches if you fancy a break. You are never really out of sight of the big skies and seas im becoming familiar with.
I spotted birds, lizards, some kind of locust, a couple of seals and numerous plants I wasn't familiar with. The path is so well made its accessible to all and every couple of km there were staff looking after the area.
Its a fantastic walk and the sea is really the superstar here, big rolling waves crashing into rocks, kelp lazily swinging to and fro and seabirds in abundance. Despite a warm day there is a refreshing mist in the air to enjoy. My hair isnt totally keen on the atmos but hey ho, you cant have it all!
I work five hours a day, five days a week and the work is pretty simple once youve been shown the ropes, check people in and out, meet and greet and make sure you are always available.
Today im working 5-10 so this morning i took myself off on the coastal path to explore.
Hermanus has a path about 11km long, starting at the New Harbour and finishing in the East on the stunning Grotto Beach, handily theres also a really cool bar/restaurant called Dutchies at the end too.
The pathway meanders through thick hedgrows and there are many many benches if you fancy a break. You are never really out of sight of the big skies and seas im becoming familiar with.
I spotted birds, lizards, some kind of locust, a couple of seals and numerous plants I wasn't familiar with. The path is so well made its accessible to all and every couple of km there were staff looking after the area.
Its a fantastic walk and the sea is really the superstar here, big rolling waves crashing into rocks, kelp lazily swinging to and fro and seabirds in abundance. Despite a warm day there is a refreshing mist in the air to enjoy. My hair isnt totally keen on the atmos but hey ho, you cant have it all!
Tuesday, 30 April 2019
Its Workaway time
I’m spending lots of time with Cherine who is full time permanent and pretty much the back bone of the hostel. Lucky for me she's relaxed and i enjoy working with her .
One of the hostel old cats Felix, has been unwell with a tumour in his tummy and he’s lost a lot of weight. Sadly today was the day Felix was due to be put down.
I accompanied Cherine to the vets so she wasn’t alone, she was so upset - and we stayed with Felix and said our goodbyes whilst he slipped away.
Felix was 14 and a legend - a sad day
Glad I got to meet him though .
Hayley and Braam - the hostel owners invited me out to a local tapas bar for its closing party, which was so much fun, and i met a lot of local people. We really got on well - its a shame they are off on holiday tomorrow so i wont see them for a month.
Im learning to find my way around here, the house is huge and also consists of a couple of other properties across the road. Max occupation is 70 - it makes me quake to think what it would be like if it was full!
As its winter here we have open fires burning and sunshine outside, the best of both worlds.
The resident animals, Jock and Ellie are great company and the whole vibe is very realxed here. Its more than a hostel, the rooms are beautifully decorated and much though has gone into making it a more of a home, lots of pictures, books, fire pit, braai, and friendly faces.
Tonight im doing my first eveing alone here, im a little nervous but hey, what could really go wrong?
Once im a little more settled theres plenty of activities and walks to do, its such a vibrant area and i cant wait to explore it more.
Touchdown SA
After a very early morning drive to Stansted (thanks Kim and Ian) a short hop over to Frankfurt where I enjoyed a ten hour layover (anything for a cheap flight!) I was almost looking forward to the 11hr 45 min flight to Capetown by the time we boarded!
The flight went smoothly and I arrived in Capetown at 8am, grabbed some cash and met my pickup driver. The weather was misty and overcast but warm. The driver was wonderfully informative even stopping to show me viewpoints along the way. Soon the skies were blue and the sun shone.
Arriving at Hermanus Backpackers I was welcomed warmly and soon settled in my room.
I spent the day wandering around town. I’ve had so many warnings from friends about danger so I was a little wary but heeded advice to stay to the main areas and take good care of my possessions.
Hermanus is an incredibly beautiful place with rolling blue seas, majestic mountains and a strong arts vibe - quaint bookshops, sculptures overlooking the sea and fantastic foods. Prices are cheap and people are friendly. I think I’m going to like it here.
reflections and reset time
Today is the first day ive started looking up, away from the melee and brain funk the last few months have got me in. Im back in 'Sarah' mode a little and starting to plan.
Its time to start thinking about packing and resetting ready for my big trip. Ive spent so many nights wondering of it will be a month, a year or three years till i start that now ive only a few weeks it all seems a bit surreal.
Ive sorted and tidied and cleaned the apartment - this will massively help the family when they clear it.
Ive had some wonderful memories whilst doing this - and some amazing help from my friends too.
Soooooo Suth Africa, what have you got for me
Its time to start thinking about packing and resetting ready for my big trip. Ive spent so many nights wondering of it will be a month, a year or three years till i start that now ive only a few weeks it all seems a bit surreal.
Ive sorted and tidied and cleaned the apartment - this will massively help the family when they clear it.
Ive had some wonderful memories whilst doing this - and some amazing help from my friends too.
Soooooo Suth Africa, what have you got for me
Monday, 11 February 2019
When you are glad you didn’t make the headlines ..
Usually when i go walking alone here I always choose a route where you can mostly see the sea. This is because I have a terrible sense of direction and fear i may be that person in the headlines 'British woman found in Tenerife barranco surviving solely on cactus juice and dehydrated gecko toes' but, after some good advice and a little read on the interweb i decided to attempt the inland Ruta del Almandre en flor. This is The Almond Blossom walk, very popular locally and with visitors in the know, and also very short lived as is blossom, only for a few weeks in February each year. Almonds (together with dinky Canarian bananas - and now also avocados its seems) are grown widely on the island.
The wonderful Viewfinder app gave me a route of around five miles with a time of 3 hours. Perfect! I packed some food and water and headed north on the TF-1 (The only motorway i think we have on the island) for 30 mins to Santiago Del Tiede, I parked by the side of the road, it was already in the low 20's and the village seemed quite busy for 10am, something was going on in the church square, music, and people setting up bar-b-ques at the base on a nice looking mountain. The Spanish certainly know how to do family weekends!
I followed a few people with backpacks headed in the general direction the app pointed me in and we soon turned off the road onto a rocky well-defined trail.
With the sun on my back i headed off with a slight incline for quite a few kms, the beautiful almond trees didn't disappoint but also there were lots of other plants and even a few herbs. After about an hour I spotted behind me a gap between the mountains and the neighboring island of La Gomera rising silently out of the mist. Further on I had a choice, a steep hill in front or an intriguing slightly obscure left turn, after consulting the map it was clear I was supposed to go left, and I'm glad I did! Around the corner was some impressive still famred terracing, and a valley full of little allotment like areas still also clearly in use. In front of me were the remains of a narrowgaugee railtrack which i traced into a nearby cave. Im told they mine water from the mountains. I did find a lot of fresh water in channels nearby too - brilliant.
Onwards and the day really began to heat up, i was glad of the litres of water i was carrying. Geckos darted across the path in front of me and i was aware of the slightly sulphorous smell of the sun warming the lava rock trail which crunched under each footstep. Eventually i came to a road and trekked the last km back into town where i began. Scouting out a bar opposite the church square i sat in the shade enjoying a thirst quenching lemon beer (alcohol-free - apparently 15% of the local beer trade is alcohol-free as the spanish see beer more as a thirst quencher than an alcoholic beverage!)
In the church square there were stalls selling local honey, jewlerry, almond cakes and turon (google it!)
Feeling a little hot and bothered i decided to head down fromt he mountains to the beach. Playa San Juan - a small beach and port where nearby so i headed there. What a joy, black sand, loads of space, and a real relaxed vibe. This was a world away from the very touristy beaches i am used to. After a couple of hours rest i had a wander, caught the sunset from a great little spot and headed home for dinner. Not bad for a Sunday, and glad ididn'tt make that headline.
The wonderful Viewfinder app gave me a route of around five miles with a time of 3 hours. Perfect! I packed some food and water and headed north on the TF-1 (The only motorway i think we have on the island) for 30 mins to Santiago Del Tiede, I parked by the side of the road, it was already in the low 20's and the village seemed quite busy for 10am, something was going on in the church square, music, and people setting up bar-b-ques at the base on a nice looking mountain. The Spanish certainly know how to do family weekends!
I followed a few people with backpacks headed in the general direction the app pointed me in and we soon turned off the road onto a rocky well-defined trail.
With the sun on my back i headed off with a slight incline for quite a few kms, the beautiful almond trees didn't disappoint but also there were lots of other plants and even a few herbs. After about an hour I spotted behind me a gap between the mountains and the neighboring island of La Gomera rising silently out of the mist. Further on I had a choice, a steep hill in front or an intriguing slightly obscure left turn, after consulting the map it was clear I was supposed to go left, and I'm glad I did! Around the corner was some impressive still famred terracing, and a valley full of little allotment like areas still also clearly in use. In front of me were the remains of a narrowgaugee railtrack which i traced into a nearby cave. Im told they mine water from the mountains. I did find a lot of fresh water in channels nearby too - brilliant.
Onwards and the day really began to heat up, i was glad of the litres of water i was carrying. Geckos darted across the path in front of me and i was aware of the slightly sulphorous smell of the sun warming the lava rock trail which crunched under each footstep. Eventually i came to a road and trekked the last km back into town where i began. Scouting out a bar opposite the church square i sat in the shade enjoying a thirst quenching lemon beer (alcohol-free - apparently 15% of the local beer trade is alcohol-free as the spanish see beer more as a thirst quencher than an alcoholic beverage!)
In the church square there were stalls selling local honey, jewlerry, almond cakes and turon (google it!)
Feeling a little hot and bothered i decided to head down fromt he mountains to the beach. Playa San Juan - a small beach and port where nearby so i headed there. What a joy, black sand, loads of space, and a real relaxed vibe. This was a world away from the very touristy beaches i am used to. After a couple of hours rest i had a wander, caught the sunset from a great little spot and headed home for dinner. Not bad for a Sunday, and glad ididn'tt make that headline.
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